editorial
slow and steady
Committed, self-sufficient and defiant, Yorkshireman John Alexander Skelton is the kind of fashion designer who looks forward by revisiting – and rewriting – history. Here his timeless creations are modelled by volunteers on a vegetable growing co-op outside London.Photography by William Waterworth
Styling by Flora Huddart
Text by Dino Bonačić.darkness visible
Traditional wellness materials such as activated charcoal, clays, honey and hibiscus sit cheek by jowl with organic and eco-friendly cosmetics, as make-up artist CRYSTABEL RILEY explores the relationship between mindfulness, self-care, colour and beauty.Photography by Ekua Kingreality bytes
Much fashion now makes its greatest impact by being shared digitally. Blending age-old Taiwanese origami traditions with cutting-edge CGI manipulation, Ujin LiN’s creations exist in a virtual world, constrained only by his imagination.Artwork by Ujin Lin
Words by Kyle MacNeillwade into the water
Julia Sue Dotson’s designs are about storytelling – exploring topics like gender politics and conventions of domesticity through the use of reclaimed materialsPhotography by Kerry J Dean.
Styling by Célia Moutawahid.
Interview by Alex McIntosh.just kidding
Fashion is in continual flux, as each fresh generation rises up to supplant the last. Here photographer Max Farago passes the baton to his daughter ALMA, who stars in (and takes control of) a shoot bound only by the limits of her imaginationPhotography by Max Farago Styling by Jasmine Hassettkeep forever
Whether she was making Bob Marley’s famous tam, or creating wearable sculptures in crochet, Dina Knapp was an artist ahead of her time. Incorporating found pieces of ephemera, her work blurred the lines between fashion-foward clothing and artPhotography by Gwen Trannoy Styling by Elle Britt Text by Katie Servadry run
What happens to all the clothes that are left unclaimed at the dry cleaners? Waste not, want not, is our motto. Here we road-test those neglected items and give them new purpose. Everything is crisp, clean and pressed, naturallyPhotography By Katsu Naito Styling by Jason Ridertake my blues away
Lebanese renaissance woman HALA MOAWAD creates one-off leather garments from fleamarket pieces and appliquéd off-cuts. She gives these pieces a new life, rising out of the remnants like a phoenix from the flames.Photography by David Luraschi Styling by Omaima Salem Text by Nicolas Niarchosaries collaboration
Introducing the new collaboration between More Or Less and ARIES ARISE – a bespoke capsule collection created from upcycled archive pieces and studio offcuts. It’s available exclusively online, and modelled here by the ethereal beauty GEORGIA PALMERPhotography by Angelo Pennetta Styling by Claudia Sinclair
Text by Memuna Kontehthe blow up
Inspired by images of makeshift face masks in the early days of the pandemic, emerging designer SAN KIM responded with a collection of surreal full-body armour, crafted from reclaimed plastics bags and inflated to comical proportionsPhotography by Kerry Dean Text by Douglas Greenwoodfamily heirlooms
As a child, photographer NADINE IJEWERE would be visited by her aunts, who returned to Nigeria with her outgrown clothes to distribute them to the wider family, giving the garments a second life. Inspired by them, and by using a mix of hand-me-downs, vintage and eco-brands, she creates a shoot where garments – new, old and certainly sustainable – can be worn in more than one wayPhotography by Nadine Ijewere Styling by Nell Kalonjino foamo
Join us on the crest of a rave as we re-create the euphoria of the Balearic house scene via the natural beauty of sea foam. Much of the eco clubwear is derived from recycled ocean plastic, keeping the tides clearPhotography by Jack Davison Styling by Raphael Hirschknitty gritty
READ MOREFrom grannies to graduates, everyone’s gone gaga for knitting during the pandemic. With crochet being a more sustainable and circular alternative to mass production, we celebrate the beauty of the knit, as interpreted by some of London’s most exciting fashion studentsPhotography by Arnaud Lajeunie Styling by Robbie Spencer Text by Kasia Hastingsyouth brigade
Faced with environmental crisis and seeming indifference from those in charge, a new generation of CLIMATE ACTIVISTS are rising up, in every sense. Five of Britain’s leading young campaigners make their voices heardPhotography by Sam Rock Text by Georgia Grahamwild child
Out in the wilderness of France’s Luberon national park, a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in the heart of Provence, model MICA ARGAÑARAZ communes with nature in organic pieces, complemented by a series of specially commissioned land-art sculpturesPhotography and sculpture by Théo de Gueltzl Styling by Emilie Karehpaint by numbers
Taking inspiration from classic ready-to-wear pieces, our favourite “fake fashion” label KEZAKO PARIS emulates catwalk looks with nothing more than a dab of body paint. Proof, perhaps, that true style is only skin deep?Photography by Oliver Hadlee Pearch Styling by Charlotte ColletHow to Build a Bee Hotel
Did you know that of all the 275 bee varieties in the UK, there’s only one kind of honeybee and 27 varieties of bumble bee...issue 04 covers
stuck on you
Voted Britain’s best-loved mammal, the shy and retiring hedgehog is facing a population implosion. Its dwindling numbers are a warning sign for our ecosystem – so what can be done about this prickly problem?Photography by Chris Rhodes
Text by Ross AstonNewsletter
People, places and things that we love — every month.
sewn together
Working across London for 25 years, STITCHES IN TIME is a charity that brings diverse communities together with artists and educators to deal with often complex social and economic issues. In the shadow of Canary Wharf, in an area of high child poverty and economic inequality, Stitches in Time builds resilience by tapping into the rich local cultural heritage and history. Using textiles and the arts, the organisation co-designs projects to create, learn and form lasting community cohesionPhotography by Laurence Ellisthats a wrap
A gift shows you care – but disposable packaging doesn’t. Amber Testino’s UPWRAP initiative offers a covetable alternative to this unsustainable wastePhotography by Anthony Costifas
Text by Darcie Imbertprotect and preserve
Creative director JONNY LU divides his time between the fashion circuit and exploring remote habitats with the WORLD LAND TRUSTup with the lark
The experience of lockdown upended our regular routines – so much so that confirmed night owl ROSS ASTON determined he would wake up to hear the dawn chorus. Here he reflects on birdsong’s calming naturePhotography by Jack Davison
Text by Ross Astoncan witchcraft save the planet?
The world is riven by division and instability. Might it be the case that a solution lies in the arcane traditions of witchcraft– a philosophy with respect for nature at its heart?Photography by Ruth Hogben
Art direction by Simon Costinrhymin & stealin
The BEASTIE BOYS were the OGs of thrift-store shopping, sporting vintage threads for videos and live performances – or just while causing havoc with their best friend SPIKE JONZEPhotography by Spike Jonze
Text by Humberto Leongo with the flow
READ MOREThey’re rarely discussed, but mainstream sanitary products contribute to our disposable, single-use culture. Enter the period pant – the sustainable alternative that aims to break this wasteful cycle for goodPhotography by Ellen Fedors Text by Kasia Hastingsart on your sleeve
At the sweet point where crochet meets counterculture, the wearable-art movement treats fashion as a variety of sculpture. JEAN CACICEDO, one its key practitioners, says it’s an idea that has never been more timelyText by Katie Servafuture prospects
In the forests of northern Germany, model LOU SCHOOF has designed her own home. Building on the foundations of her eco-warrior upbringing, it points the way to a more responsible way of livingPhotography by Lou Schoof Text by Matthew Benjaminfolk tales
TIWA SELECT is a new online boutique with a highly curated array of found objects, folk art and artisanal craft from around the globe. Here founder ALEX TIEGHI-WALKER shares the stories – and the faces – behind some of his favourite items from the siteText by Alex Tieghi-WalkerHow to… with Marc Hundley
The New York-based artist and craftsman shares the secrets of his do-it-yourself ethos, revealing how to construct functional but cute furniture and customise your T-shirts to get your message acrossPhotography by Marc Hundleyface to face time
Designer KUSHEDA MENSAH wants to get people away from their screens. Her MODULAR BY MENSAH furniture is intended to provide sculptural talking points and build community cohesion – even in an era of social distancingPhotography by Jermaine Francis Text by Darcie Imbertindigo iterations
They’re made from the most ubiquitous of cloths, but even straightforward jeans have hidden complexities. New and repurposed denim fuse with vintage pieces in a collage of blue that keep you guessingPhotography by Hanna Moon Styling by Camille Bidault-WaddingtonAnimal Collective
READ MOREFor years the ASPINALL FOUNDATION has been working on environmental conservation – rescuing and breeding endangered species, caring for them in its properties in Britain and later releasing them into their natural habitats around the world. Here’s a special portfolio of the many rare creatures raised under its supervision and carePhotography by Jack Davison Text by Tom SeymourFridays for Future
The vigil of a lone schoolgirl sitting outside the Swedish parliament has blossomed into a panglobal movement with members in the millions. More Or Less hit the streets during the student protests in New York lead by activist icon Greta Thunberg.Photographed by Michael Hauptman Open letter by Extinction RebellionPlanet Pamela
From saving lives on Malibu Beach to saving life on Earth, PAMELA ANDERSON has come a long way in the past few decades. “I’d be doing it anyway, even if I wasn’t famous,” she tells usPhotography by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin
Styling by Mel Ottenberg
Text by Hanna HanraParting Ways
In our third project with New York’s Red Hook Labs talent-nurturing school, we pair student photographer LUCIANA REYNOSO with virtuoso hairstylist JAWARA WAUCHOPE. Together, they bring new meaning to the term high-risePhotography by Luciana Reynoso Hair and creative direction by Jawaramade in vietnam
Meet the residents of Ho Chi Minh City, home to one of Vietnam’s busiest garment districts. MORE OR LESS gets acquainted with some of the locals as they model timeless – and timely – ensembles selected from the city’s bustling secondhand markets, in the home of fast-fashion manufacturingPhotography by Laurence Ellis Styling by Jason Riderletter from the editor
dark material
Following years of warnings, matters have come to head: there is now a growing public awareness that our global reliance on plastics isn’t compatible with a balanced and ecologically diverse future. More Or Less asked six photographers for their thoughts on this most pervasive of man-made problemssew aloha
READ MOREThe Breeders’ lead guitarist KELLEY DEAL makes more than brilliant music. Here she tells WILLIAM VAN METER about her line of sustainable knit accessories; a new crafting business venture that’s way beyond a hobbyPhotography by Daniel Jack Lyons Styling by Jorden Bickhamwaste life
A chance encounter on holiday led designer PRIYA AHLUWALIA to uncover a global industry that inspired the formation of her own brand. She tells ROSS ASTON about the truth behind the clothing we give and throw away, and how it can be remade into ever-better thingsPhotography by Laurence Ellis Styling by Riccardo Maria Chiacchio
Text by Ross Astonknotty
There is always a message hidden within the loops of yarn in artist LISA ANNE AUERBACH’s politically charged sweaters, and it’s no different with her book of fuzzy femme fatales, KNOTTYArtwork by Lisa Anne Auerbach Text by Ross AstonHow to…with Mervine
The idiosyncratic artist and former drummer with the Brian Jonestown Massacre can’t help but create. Here he takes us step by step through making the most of your home... or fridge, using anything at hand.Photography by Marius Hansenfrom lagos with love
Lust, bravery and fearlessness – three things with which stereotype-averse designer MOWALOLA OGUNLESI infuses her inimitable collections. Here she speaks to EMMA ELWICK-BATES about her inclusivity-focused clothing that crosses not only continents, but notions of gender and race tooPhotography by Vicki King Styling by Helena Tejedorone man’s junk…
BRYAN DICKERSON, the brains behind @THRIFTSTOREART, curates some of his favourite treasures discovered in charity shops across America and lets More Or Less in on the stories behind these left-behind masterpiecesPhotography by David Brandon Geeting Set design by Megan Kiantosmy favourite thing
More Or Less questions the very idea of throwaway fashion – clothing should be something to wear, to repair and to cherish. Here we ask a range of style luminaries to share their memories of clothes that they have held on to for a long timeText by Charlie Porterfamily ties
READ MORENever “too big”, but oversized. Never “too small”, but cropped. Hand-me-downs gain a revived purpose from their new wearers, and in turn bring back lives lost and eras past. ROSALIND JANA breaks down their alchemy, while CLARE SHILLAND photographs her daughter Miriam in a selection of pre-owned and newly loved itemsPhotography by Clare Shilland Styling by Beth Fentontravelling light
Art director and activist MARINA TESTINO travelled across Europe with nothing but this tiny carry-on bag, all in the name of conscious consumption and reducing her carbon footprintPhotography by Jenny van Sommers Text by Ross Astongrim fairytale
Don’t be afraid of the dark. ALEXIS E MABRY’s simultaneously saccharine and unsettling artwork, painted on vintage fabrics, is inspired by opposites: children’s books, horror movies and the churchPortrait by Jackie Lee Young Text by Julia Hobbsmasterpieces
An icon of the 1980s mall, SANDRA GARRATT’s Multiples didn’t just sell garments; it offered a whole ethos. Her pieces’ modular designs meant they could be worn in a variety of ways – multifunctional clothing that feels just as relevant now as it did thenInterview by Katie Servasign of the times
In our fractious times, a new kind of luxury seems to be emerging. It draws on views of materialism, consumption and the environment in a way that is impossible to quantify, moving beyond simple ideas of decadence or expense. More Or Less asks five artists to interpret what the word “luxury” means to them now – while writer HARRIET QUICK explores the ever-changing nature of the word and the culture that informs itsay yes to the dress
When you’re designing a dress there is plenty to think about: form, fit and also, if Susie Cave has anything to do with it, the good causes it can benefit. Here she explains how an exclusive new design in African wax-print fabric can help combat the spread of AidsPhotography by Polly Borland. Text by Ross Astonshow and telfar
Only one label could combine winning prestigious fashion awards with designing uniforms for a burger chain – TELFAR. Gerlan Marcel meets the duo behind the androgynous, one-look-fits-all brand that’s redefining the way we look at the mass marketPhotography by Charlie Engman Styling by Avena Gallagherlab testing
READ MOREA rising star nurtured by the Red Hook Labs project, Brooklyn high-schooler DENISE HEWITT photographs her friends on the brownstone streets of Carroll Gardens in a mixture of reworked vintage and recycled piecesStyling by Beth Fenton Text by Ross Astonhole hearted
“Make do and mend”, or so the saying goes. Artist CELIA PYM has taken it a leap further, breathing new life, beauty and meaning into the worn garments that she renews.Text by Emma Elwick-Batesheron addict
A creative disruptor in more ways than one, HERON PRESTON merges high and low, reality and artifice. The genre-fusing designer tells Emma Elwick-Bates about his work at the vanguard of environmentally-aware fashionPhotography by Bruno Staub Styling by Clare Byrnehow to… with ian hundley
London’s most in-demand tailor and creator of exquisite textile art pieces talks us through what he knows best and instructs us in the making of our own quilted blanketPhotography by Andreas Larssoncheap thrills
The publication that launched a thousand copycats, cult zine Cheap Date’s influence can still be felt today. Model KAREN ELSON chats to co-founder BAY GARNETT about her outspoken, unapologetic and altogether fun creationInterview by Karen Elson Introduction by Ross Astonknowing me, knowing you
Reflecting on oneself and learning about others is a vital part of good mental wellbeing – it’s as important as your five-a-day. Close friends BEN BLACKMORE and DAN STEWART explore their personalities with a questionnaire about themselves and each other. No conferring allowed!Photography by Alex Sainsbury Interview by Ross Astonsolo artist
Under the name Judas Companion, artist Jasmin Reif draws upon the detritus of her life to craft beautiful yet disquieting costumes that both disguise and reveal who she really isPhotography by Judas Companion. Text by Ross Astonthats some nerve
READ MORENERVEMETER wouldn’t want a fawning explanation of what it is – it would want us to read it, think about what it has to say and then to get up and create change. We could all start by TP-ing an estate agents.Text by Ross Aston